Cruises from Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires sits on the wide, muddy Río de la Plata, and its port is the starting point for the classic South American cruise: a 14- to 17-night voyage around Cape Horn to Santiago’s ports of San Antonio or Valparaíso, calling at Montevideo, Puerto Madryn, the Falkland Islands, Ushuaia, Punta Arenas, the Chilean fjords and Puerto Montt. Shorter cruises head north to Punta del Este, Rio de Janeiro and Búzios, and some 14- to 20-night voyages sail to the Antarctic Peninsula for scenic cruising without landings.

For North Americans, Buenos Aires is a gentle long-haul trip: overnight flights from Miami, Atlanta, Dallas, Houston and New York land in the morning, and the time difference from the East Coast is only an hour or two. The city itself, with its grand boulevards, European architecture, tango, steak and late nights, often ends up a highlight of the whole trip.

The trade-offs: the port is industrial and you can’t simply stroll into town, Argentina’s economy and currency rules change frequently, and petty theft is a real concern in busy areas. With some planning, none of these should spoil your stay.

Ships berth in the Puerto Nuevo docks, and passengers are processed at the Benito Quinquela Martín Cruise Terminal, near the Retiro district north of downtown. The terminal sits inside a working port, so you can’t walk in or out; shuttle buses link the ship with the terminal building, and taxis and transfers pick up and drop off at the terminal itself. On embarkation day, hand over your luggage at the terminal, clear security and Argentine immigration, then ride the shuttle to the ship. When several ships turn around at once, lines can be long, so arrive at your assigned time and be patient.

Recoleta is elegant and leafy, with grand hotels, cafés and the famous cemetery, and it’s about 10 to 15 minutes from the cruise terminal. Palermo, with its Soho and Hollywood districts, is the city’s dining and nightlife hub, with parks and boutique hotels. Puerto Madero, a redeveloped docklands area, feels modern and secure and is close to the port. San Telmo is bohemian and atmospheric, while Retiro and the Microcentro are convenient but quiet at night.

Cruises sail from about November to March, the Southern Hemisphere summer. December and January bring the warmest weather and longest days in Patagonia and the best conditions for Cape Horn and Antarctic scenic cruising, but also the highest demand around the holidays. November and March are slightly cooler and quieter. MSC and Costa run Brazil and Uruguay cruises aimed at South American travelers through the summer, and outside the season there are essentially no departures.