Cruises from Ushuaia

Ushuaia calls itself the southernmost city in the world, and it sits about 600 miles (1,000 km) from the Antarctic Peninsula across the Drake Passage. That makes it the starting point for the majority of Antarctic voyages. A classic peninsula expedition lasts 10 to 12 nights, with about two days crossing the Drake each way and several days of Zodiac landings among penguin colonies, glaciers and icebergs. Longer 18- to 23-night voyages add the Falkland Islands and South Georgia, home to vast king penguin colonies.

These are expedition ships, not mega-ships. International guidelines limit landings to ships carrying no more than 500 passengers, and most Antarctic vessels carry far fewer, with expert naturalists, kayaks and Zodiacs aboard. Larger cruise ships that visit Antarctica usually sail from Buenos Aires or Chile for scenic cruising only, though some call at Ushuaia along the way.

Ushuaia itself is a frontier town of colorful houses, outdoor shops and seafood restaurants, with snowcapped peaks behind it and the Beagle Channel in front. Expect changeable weather even in summer, and remember the journey here takes time: most North Americans need two flights and at least a night in Buenos Aires.

Expedition ships tie up at the main pier in the center of town, a few blocks from Avenida San Martín, the main street. Embarkation is usually in the late afternoon. Many lines ask you to drop luggage in the morning at a designated hotel or check-in point, then you’re free to explore until boarding; bags are delivered to your cabin. Passengers then walk or are bused through the port security gate to the ship. Some lines that include charter flights from Buenos Aires transfer you straight from the airport to the pier. Read your line’s pre-departure instructions closely, as arrangements differ.

Downtown hotels around Avenida San Martín and the waterfront are walkable to the pier, restaurants and shops. Hotels on the hillside above town, along the road toward the Martial Glacier, offer sweeping views of the Beagle Channel and mountains but require a taxi. Rooms fill quickly during the Antarctic season, so book early. If your line includes a Buenos Aires hotel night, consider adding a night in Ushuaia at your own expense for a buffer.

Antarctic voyages from Ushuaia run from about November to March. November brings pristine snow, courting penguins and the first icebreaking voyages. December and January offer the longest days, the warmest temperatures and penguin chicks, making them the busiest and most expensive months. February and March are prime time for whale watching, with fledgling penguins and fewer crowds. Outside the season, the sea ice and weather prevent expedition cruising.