Hurtigruten

Captain Richard With launched the first coastal express route in 1893 to carry mail, cargo and passengers along Norway’s rugged coast, where roads were scarce. The route, Hurtigruten (“the fast route”), became a lifeline for coastal communities and remains one today, still carrying locals and freight alongside travelers. In 2025 Hurtigruten separated from its former expedition arm, now HX Expeditions, and continues as a standalone Norwegian company focused on the coast.

The fleet is around ten Norwegian-flagged ships, including MS Richard With, MS Nordlys, MS Nordnorge, MS Kong Harald, MS Nordkapp, MS Polarlys and MS Vesterålen on the Original Coastal Express. Three upgraded Signature ships, MS Trollfjord, MS Finnmarken and MS Midnatsol, run more premium voyages, including the Svalbard Line to Longyearbyen in summer and the North Cape Line in winter.

The classic voyage is a round trip of about 12 days from Bergen to Kirkenes near the Russian border and back, though many travelers sail one way or just a section. Because the ships call at the same ports northbound and southbound at different times of day, the round trip lets you see places you passed at night on the way up.

Hurtigruten is relaxed, practical and scenery-focused. Guests come from Norway, Germany, the UK, North America and beyond, typically 50 and older, with plenty of solo travelers and couples. Dress is casual and outdoorsy, with layers for deck time in cold wind. Ships are mid-size, carrying around 500 guests, and some port stops last just 15 minutes for cargo and local passengers, while others allow several hours for excursions. Entertainment is minimal; the views of fjords, mountains and fishing villages are the show. Expect a ferry-like rhythm with arrivals at all hours, and possible rough seas on exposed stretches in winter.

Meals focus on Norway’s Coastal Kitchen, sourcing ingredients such as Arctic char, cod, king crab, reindeer and cloudberries from local suppliers along the route. Fares on the Original Coastal Express include full board in the main restaurant, while Signature voyages include a more extensive dining experience. Port-to-port tickets don’t include meals, which can be bought onboard.

There’s no theater or casino. Expedition-style guides give talks on Norwegian history, culture and nature, and the crew announces sights such as the Trollfjord or the Arctic Circle crossing, which is marked with a playful ceremony. Optional excursions range from dog sledding and snowmobiling in winter to hikes and city tours in summer.

Children are welcome and travel at reduced fares on many departures, but there are no kids clubs. Families with older kids who love nature and the outdoors can enjoy the scenery and excursions.

Cabins are functional, ranging from inside cabins to outside cabins with windows and suites with balconies on some ships. Many are compact, and some older ships have limited premium options. The Signature ships offer upgraded cabins and suites.

Drinks are extra on the Original Coastal Express, apart from tea and coffee on some fare types, and alcohol prices reflect Norway’s high costs. Drink packages are available, and Signature voyages include more.

No automatic gratuities are added, and tipping is optional, in line with Norwegian custom.

The 1893 Ambassador loyalty program gives returning guests benefits such as discounts on future voyages and onboard perks, and registering unlocks basic Wi-Fi on some fares.